Caring for Color-Treated Hair

Hair coloring, whether permanent, demi-permanent, or semi-permanent, alters the hair's structure to deposit pigment. Permanent hair color, for example, typically uses an alkaline agent like ammonia to swell the hair cuticle and allow oxidative dyes to penetrate the cortex. A developer, usually hydrogen peroxide, then initiates a chemical reaction to create color molecules within the hair shaft.

This chemical process, while transformative, can make hair more porous and susceptible to damage, fading, and dryness. The cuticle, which acts as the hair's protective outer layer, may not lie as flat after coloring, leading to a rougher texture and increased vulnerability to environmental stressors.

The Science of Color Retention

Color molecules, particularly synthetic organic pigments, are designed to bind within the hair's cortex. However, several factors contribute to their degradation and washout:

• Water: The most significant culprit, especially warm or hot water, leaches color molecules from the hair shaft. Hard water, rich in minerals like calcium and magnesium, can also deposit on the hair, making it appear dull and potentially altering the color tone.
• UV Radiation: Ultraviolet rays from the sun break down color molecules, leading to fading. This is particularly noticeable with red and auburn shades, which have larger color molecules that are more easily disrupted.
• Heat Styling: High temperatures from tools such as flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers can degrade color molecules and open the cuticle, accelerating color loss and increasing dryness.
• Sulfates: Found in many traditional shampoos, sulfates (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate) are strong detergents designed to create lather and remove oil and dirt. While effective cleansers, they can also strip natural oils and artificial pigments from the hair.
• pH Imbalance: Hair's natural pH is acidic, typically between 4.5 and 5.5. Hair coloring processes are often alkaline, raising the pH. Using products with an imbalanced pH can further disrupt the cuticle and accelerate color loss. Acidic rinses (e.g., diluted apple cider vinegar) are sometimes used to help flatten the cuticle and seal in color.

Essential Care Practices

1. Gentle Cleansing

Opt for a shampoo specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These shampoos are typically sulfate-free and have a lower pH to help maintain the hair's integrity and prevent premature color washout. Washing hair less frequently, perhaps every 2-3 days, can also extend color vibrancy. When you do wash, use lukewarm water rather than hot water, which can open the cuticle and cause color to bleed.

2. Deep Conditioning and Hydration

Color-treated hair often requires extra moisture. Use a rich conditioner after every shampoo, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends. Incorporate a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask once or twice a week. Look for ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, and natural oils (e.g., argan oil, coconut oil) that help strengthen the hair shaft and provide essential hydration. Hydrated hair retains color better because a smooth, intact cuticle holds pigment more effectively.

3. Protect from Heat

Minimize the use of heat styling tools. When heat styling is necessary, always apply a heat protection spray beforehand. These products create a barrier between the heat and the hair, reducing damage to the cuticle and slowing the degradation of color molecules. Use the lowest effective heat setting on your tools. Air-drying when possible is the gentlest option.

4. UV Protection

Just as skin needs sun protection, so does hair. When exposed to prolonged sunlight, especially during peak hours, consider wearing a hat or using hair products that contain UV filters. These ingredients work by absorbing or reflecting harmful UV rays before they can damage hair proteins and color pigments.

5. Regular Trims

Split ends and damaged tips not only look unhealthy but can also make hair appear dull and contribute to color fading. Regular trims every 6-8 weeks remove these compromised ends, promoting healthier, more vibrant-looking hair.

6. Consider Water Quality

If you live in an area with hard water, consider installing a shower filter. These filters can significantly reduce mineral deposits that can dull color and make hair feel rough. Alternatively, weekly clarifying shampoos designed to remove mineral buildup can be beneficial, though these should be used sparingly on color-treated hair to avoid stripping color.

Addressing Specific Concerns

Fading

Fading is the most common concern. Beyond the practices above, consider using color-depositing conditioners or masks between salon visits. These products contain small amounts of pigment that can refresh your color, extending its life and vibrancy. They are not a substitute for professional coloring but can help maintain tone.

Dryness and Damage

If hair feels particularly dry or brittle, incorporate leave-in conditioners and hair oils into your routine. These provide continuous hydration and help seal the cuticle, improving elasticity and shine. For severe damage, protein treatments can temporarily fortify the hair structure, but excessive protein can cause stiffness, so use as directed.

Brassiness/Unwanted Tones

Lightened hair, especially blonde shades, can develop unwanted yellow or orange tones (brassiness) as the underlying warm pigments become exposed. Purple or blue toning shampoos and conditioners are formulated with counteracting pigments to neutralize these undesirable hues. Purple tones neutralize yellow, while blue tones neutralize orange. Use these products weekly or as needed to maintain cool tones.

In-Salon Treatments

Professionals offer treatments that can enhance color longevity and hair health. Glazes and toners applied in the salon can refresh color and add shine without the full chemical commitment of a permanent color service. Deep conditioning and bond-building treatments (e.g., those containing maleic acid or bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate) can repair disulfide bonds within the hair shaft that may be broken during chemical processing, significantly improving hair strength and integrity.

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Find these ingredients in Watermans products

• Argan Oil — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Growth Shampoo.