Product Ingredient Glossary

This glossary provides an overview of common ingredients found in haircare products, explaining their functions and benefits.

Cleansing Agents (Surfactants)

Surfactants are detergents responsible for cleansing the hair and scalp by lifting away dirt, oil, and product buildup. They have both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) properties, allowing them to mix with water and oils.

• Anionic Surfactants: These are the strongest cleansing agents and produce a rich lather. They can be very effective at removing heavy product buildup but may also be more stripping for some hair types. Examples include Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate.
• Amphoteric Surfactants: Milder than anionic surfactants, these have both positive and negative charges depending on the pH. They are often used in combination with anionic surfactants to reduce irritation and improve foam stability. Examples include Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Coco Betaine.
• Non-ionic Surfactants: These are the mildest cleansing agents, often used in co-wash formulations or for very sensitive scalps. They produce less lather. Examples include Decyl Glucoside and Lauryl Glucoside.

Conditioning Agents

Conditioning agents work to improve the manageability, feel, appearance, and luster of hair. They typically achieve this by smoothing the hair cuticle, reducing friction, and adding moisture.

• Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (Quats): These positively charged molecules adhere to the negatively charged surface of damaged hair, neutralizing static and smoothing the cuticle. Examples include Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, and Polyquaternium compounds.
• Fatty Alcohols: These are not drying alcohols but rather emollients that provide conditioning and thickening benefits. Examples include Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Cetearyl Alcohol.
• Silicones: These synthetic polymers form a thin, protective layer around the hair shaft, providing slip, shine, and frizz control. They can be categorized as volatile (evaporate quickly) or non-volatile (remain on the hair). While some concerns exist about potential buildup, modern formulations often include water-soluble or lighter silicones. Examples include Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, and Amodimethicone.
• Natural Oils and Butters: Derived from plants, these ingredients provide emollience, nourishment, and shine. They can penetrate the hair shaft to varying degrees depending on their molecular structure. Examples include Argan Oil, Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, and Jojoba Oil.

Humectants

Humectants attract and draw moisture from the air into the hair, helping to keep it hydrated and pliable.

• Glycerin: A highly effective humectant that draws moisture into the hair strand.
• Propylene Glycol: Another common humectant, often used to improve product spreadability.
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5): A provitamin that penetrates the hair shaft, providing moisture and improving elasticity.

Emollients

Emollients soften and smooth the hair by filling in gaps in the outer cuticle layer, improving texture and reducing frizz.

• Esters: Often derived from fatty acids and alcohols, esters provide conditioning, slip, and shine. Examples include Isopropyl Myristate and Cetyl Ethylhexanoate.
• Waxes: Provide structure, hold, and a protective barrier. Examples include Beeswax and Carnauba Wax.

Proteins

Proteins help to strengthen the hair shaft, especially in damaged or chemically treated hair, by temporarily filling in gaps in the cuticle and cortex. They can also improve elasticity and reduce breakage.

• Hydrolyzed Proteins: Proteins that have been broken down into smaller molecules to allow for better penetration into the hair shaft. Examples include Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Keratin, and Hydrolyzed Silk Protein.
• Amino Acids: The building blocks of proteins, amino acids can help to strengthen and repair hair.

pH Adjusters

pH adjusters are used to ensure the product has an appropriate pH level for optimal hair health. The natural pH of hair and scalp is slightly acidic (around 4.5-5.5). Products formulated within this range help to keep the cuticle smooth and reduce frizz.

• Citric Acid: A common pH adjuster derived from citrus fruits.
• Lactic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid used for pH adjustment and gentle exfoliation.
• Sodium Hydroxide: A strong base used to raise pH.

Preservatives

Preservatives are crucial for preventing the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in water-containing products, thus extending shelf life and ensuring product safety.

• Parabens: A class of preservatives, though their use has decreased due to public concern, despite regulatory evidence generally supporting their safety at permitted levels. Examples include Methylparaben and Propylparaben.
• Phenoxyethanol: A widely used preservative with good efficacy against bacteria and yeast.
• Formaldehyde Releasers: Preservatives that slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde. Examples include DMDM Hydantoin and Imidazolidinyl Urea.
• Organic Acids: Some organic acids and their salts, like Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate, are used as milder preservatives.

Chelating Agents

Chelating agents bind to metal ions (like those found in hard water), preventing them from depositing on the hair and causing dullness, buildup, or discoloration.

• Disodium EDTA: A common and effective chelating agent.
• Tetrasodium EDTA: Another widely used chelating agent.

Botanical Extracts and Vitamins

These ingredients are often included for their perceived beneficial properties, though their efficacy can vary depending on concentration and formulation.

• Aloe Vera: Known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.
• Green Tea Extract: Contains antioxidants that can help protect hair from environmental damage.
• Biotin (Vitamin B7): A vitamin often associated with hair health and growth, although topical application for growth has limited evidence.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Can improve scalp health and circulation.

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Find these ingredients in Watermans products

• Biotin — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Growth Shampoo.
• Niacinamide — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Mask.
• Panthenol (Provitamin B5) — you will find this ingredient in our Heat Protection Spray.
• Aloe Vera — you will find this ingredient in our Curly Hair Conditioner.