Keratin Treatments

What Are Keratin Treatments?

Keratin treatments are professional salon services designed to smooth the hair, reduce frizz, and enhance shine. The process typically involves applying a liquid solution containing keratin proteins, often along with other conditioning agents, to the hair. This solution is then sealed into the hair cuticle using heat, usually from a flat iron. The result is temporarily altered hair texture, making it smoother and more manageable.

How They Work

Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a fibrous protein. Over time, environmental stressors, chemical processes, and heat styling can deplete the hair's natural keratin, leading to damage, frizz, and dullness.

Keratin treatments work by introducing external keratin into the hair shaft. While the exact mechanisms vary depending on the specific treatment and its primary active ingredients, the general principle involves:

1. Application of the Solution: A liquid formula containing hydrolyzed keratin (keratin proteins broken down into smaller molecules) and other ingredients is applied to clean, towel-dried hair.
2. Drying and Heat Activation: The hair is then blow-dried, and a flat iron is used at high temperatures (typically 400-450°F or 200-230°C) to seal the solution into the hair. The heat causes the keratin to bond with the hair's natural keratin, effectively filling in porous areas and creating a smoother surface. This process temporarily alters the disulfide bonds within the hair, allowing for a straighter, smoother appearance.

It's important to note that many keratin treatments utilize formaldehyde-releasing chemicals (such as methylene glycol or formalin). These chemicals react with the hair's amino acids to create new, longer-lasting bonds that contribute to the straightening and smoothing effect. However, formaldehyde is a known irritant and carcinogen, leading to the development of "formaldehyde-free" alternatives.

Signs You Could Benefit from a Keratin Treatment

Consider a keratin treatment if you experience one or more of the following:

• Frizz: Your hair becomes excessively frizzy, especially in humid conditions.
• Unmanageability: Your hair is difficult to style or spends a long time to blow-dry.
• Dullness: Your hair lacks natural shine and appears lifeless.
• Damage: Your hair is prone to breakage or feels rough to the touch, often due to chemical processing or heat styling.
• Texture Control: You desire a straighter or smoother hair texture without permanent chemical straightening.

How to Choose a Keratin Treatment

Choosing a keratin treatment often comes down to balancing desired results with concern for chemical exposure. Here's a breakdown of common types:

• Traditional Formaldehyde-Releasing Treatments: These offer the most dramatic and longest-lasting straightening and smoothing effects. They typically last 3-6 months. However, they release formaldehyde gas during the heating process, which can be irritating to the eyes, nose, and throat for both the client and the stylist. They are often not recommended for individuals with sensitivities or certain health conditions.
• Formaldehyde-Free (Glyoxylic Acid-Based) Treatments: These treatments use ingredients like glyoxylic acid to create a similar but often less potent smoothing effect. While they do not release formaldehyde, they can sometimes still produce strong fumes and may not offer the same level of straightening as traditional treatments. They typically last 2-4 months. The hair may revert to its natural texture more quickly with these options. Some "formaldehyde-free" treatments may still contain other aldehydes that can release formaldehyde when exposed to heat.

Ingredients to Look For

• Hydrolyzed Keratin: This is the primary active ingredient, providing the structural protein to the hair.
• Nano-Keratin/Cystine: Smaller versions of keratin or amino acids that penetrate deeper into the hair shaft.
• Botanical Extracts & Oils: Ingredients like argan oil, coconut oil, or acai berry extract can provide additional conditioning and shine.
• Protective Polymers: Some formulations include polymers that help to seal the cuticle and protect against environmental damage.

Ingredients to Be Aware Of (and Potentially Avoid)

• Formaldehyde, Methylene Glycol, Formalin, Methanediol: These are formaldehyde-releasing chemicals. Always inquire about the presence and concentration of these or similar ingredients.
• Parabens: While not directly related to the treatment's efficacy, some individuals prefer to avoid parabens due to cosmetic ingredient concerns.
• Harsh Sulfates (in subsequent shampoos): Aftercare products containing harsh sulfates can strip the keratin from the hair, reducing the longevity of the treatment.

How to Use/Apply (Professional Service)

Keratin treatments are intricate chemical processes best performed by a trained professional in a well-ventilated salon environment. The general steps include:

1. Preparation: The hair is thoroughly shampooed, often with a clarifying shampoo, to remove any product buildup and open the cuticle, allowing for better penetration of the treatment solution.
2. Application: The keratin solution is meticulously applied to small sections of towel-dried hair, ensuring even saturation while avoiding direct contact with the scalp.
3. Processing Time: The solution is left on the hair for a specified period, ranging typically from 20 to 60 minutes, depending on the product and desired intensity.
4. Drying: The hair is completely blow-dried and often brushed straight.
5. Sealing: The most crucial step involves flat-ironing small sections of hair at a high temperature (e.g., 400-450°F or 200-230°C). This seals the keratin into the hair and activates the smoothing agents. Multiple passes of the flat iron may be required for each section.
6. Rinsing (for some treatments): Some treatments require the hair to be rinsed after flat-ironing, while others instruct the client to wait 24-72 hours before wetting the hair.
7. Aftercare: Specific aftercare instructions, such as using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, are vital for prolonging the treatment's effects.

Frequency

The longevity of a keratin treatment typically ranges from 2 to 6 months, depending on the specific formula used, your hair type, how often you wash your hair, and your aftercare routine. Re-treating hair too frequently, especially with traditional formaldehyde-releasing formulas, can lead to hair damage over time. It is generally recommended to wait at least 3-4 months between treatments.

For maintenance, use professional-grade, sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, and avoid excessive heat styling to prolong the effects.

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Find these ingredients in Watermans products

• Argan Oil — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Growth Shampoo.