Keratin in Hair

What is Keratin?

Keratin is a fibrous structural protein, meaning it is long and string-like, and forms the building blocks of hair, skin, and nails in humans and animals. In hair, keratin constitutes approximately 90% of its dry weight. This protein is unique due to its high sulfur content, primarily in the amino acid cysteine, which forms disulfide bonds. These bonds are crucial for hair's strength, elasticity, and resilience.

The Structure of Keratin

Keratin in hair exists in two main forms: alpha-keratin and beta-keratin. Human hair primarily contains alpha-keratin, which forms a coiled coiled-coil structure. These alpha-helices then twist together to form protofibrils, which in turn form microfibrils and macrofibrils. These intricate structures are embedded in an amorphous (non-crystalline) matrix of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs), which are rich in disulfide bonds, further contributing to the hair's structural stability.

Disulfide Bonds

Disulfide bonds are strong chemical links between two sulfur atoms, formed from the amino acid cysteine. These bonds are responsible for the hair's shape and strength. Chemical treatments like perms and relaxers work by breaking and then reforming these disulfide bonds to alter the hair's natural structure.

The Role of Keratin in Hair Health

Keratin is fundamental to healthy hair. It provides:

• Strength and Durability: The complex network of keratin and disulfide bonds gives hair its tensile strength, allowing it to withstand pulling and stretching without breaking.
• Elasticity: The coiled nature of alpha-keratin allows hair to stretch and return to its original shape.
• Protection: The outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, is composed of dead, overlapping keratinized cells. This layer acts as a protective barrier against physical, chemical, and environmental damage.
• Shine and Smoothness: A healthy, intact cuticle with smoothly laid keratin scales reflects light, making hair appear smooth and shiny. Damage to the cuticle can lead to rougher, duller hair.

Keratin Damage and Its Causes

Several factors can lead to the degradation of keratin in hair, compromising its integrity and appearance:

• Chemical Treatments: Perms, relaxers, and hair dyes utilize chemicals that can break disulfide bonds and damage the keratin structure.
• Heat Styling: Excessive heat from styling tools like flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers can denature (alter the structure of) keratin proteins, leading to brittleness and breakage.
• Environmental Factors: UV radiation from the sun, pollution, and harsh weather conditions can degrade keratin over time.
• Mechanical Stress: Aggressive brushing, tight hairstyles, and rough towel drying can cause physical damage to the hair shaft, chipping away at the keratin scales.
• Nutritional Deficiencies: A diet lacking essential proteins, vitamins, and minerals can impair the body's ability to produce healthy keratin.

Replenishing Keratin

While hair is primarily composed of dead cells and cannot "heal" in the same way living tissue does, keratin can be replenished and reinforced externally. This typically involves the use of products containing hydrolyzed keratin or keratin derivatives.

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Hydrolyzed keratin is keratin that has been broken down into smaller peptides and amino acids through a process called hydrolysis. This smaller size allows the keratin to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively and temporarily fill in gaps and rough spots in the cuticle. It can also form a protective film on the hair surface.

Keratin Treatments

Keratin treatments, often performed in salons, involve applying a liquid keratin formula to the hair, which is then sealed in with heat. These treatments typically aim to smooth the hair cuticle, reduce frizz, and enhance shine. The effects are temporary, usually lasting for several weeks to a few months, as the keratin slowly washes out of the hair.

Haircare Products

Many shampoos, conditioners, and styling products are formulated with keratin or keratin derivatives. These products can help to:

• Strengthen the hair shaft.
• Improve elasticity.
• Reduce breakage and split ends.
• Smooth the cuticle for enhanced shine.
• Protect against further damage.

It is important to note that while these products can significantly improve the appearance and feel of damaged hair, they do not permanently alter the hair's inherent structure. Consistent use is often necessary to maintain the benefits.

Frequently Asked Questions About Keratin

Question	Answer
Is keratin good for all hair types?	Keratin is beneficial for most hair types, especially those that are damaged, dry, or prone to frizz. However, fine hair may find some keratin treatments or heavy products too weighty, potentially leading to a lack of volume.
Can too much keratin damage hair?	While keratin is essential, excessive application of some highly concentrated keratin products, particularly those used in professional treatments, without proper balance, can potentially make hair stiff or brittle if the hair isn't also receiving adequate moisture and elasticity-enhancing ingredients. It's about balance.
How can I naturally boost keratin?	Your body naturally produces keratin. A balanced diet rich in protein (eggs, lean meats, fish, beans), biotin (nuts, seeds, sweet potatoes), vitamin C (citrus fruits, bell peppers), and omega-3 fatty acids (salmon, flaxseed) supports healthy keratin production. Maintaining good hair care practices, such as minimizing heat and chemical damage, also preserves existing keratin.

Keratin is the cornerstone of healthy, strong, and beautiful hair. Understanding its role and how to protect and replenish it is key to maintaining optimal hair health. By implementing good hair care practices and using appropriate products, individuals can significantly improve the condition and appearance of their hair.

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Find these ingredients in Watermans products

• Biotin — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Growth Shampoo.
• Vitamin C — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Vitamins.