Understanding the Hair Growth Cycle
The hair growth cycle consists of three primary phases—anagen, catagen, and telogen—each vital for hair health and renewal.

The Phases of Hair Growth
Hair growth is not a continuous process but rather a cyclical one, with each strand of hair undergoing distinct phases of growth, regression, and rest. This intricate cycle ensures the continuous renewal of hair, although individual hairs are not synchronized, meaning they are all in different phases at any given time. Understanding these phases is crucial for comprehending hair health, hair loss, and various hair treatments.
Anagen (Growth Phase)
The anagen phase is the active growth stage of a hair follicle. During this period, cells in the hair bulb rapidly divide, forming new hair cells. These new cells push the existing hair upward and out, causing the hair shaft to lengthen. The duration of the anagen phase is genetically determined and varies significantly from person to person, typically lasting between two and seven years. This phase dictates the maximum length a person's hair can achieve. For scalp hair, about 85-90% of all hair follicles are in the anagen phase at any given time. Factors such as genetics, nutrition, hormones, and overall health can influence the length of this phase.
Catagen (Transition Phase)
The catagen phase is a brief, transitional stage that follows the anagen phase. It typically lasts for about two to three weeks. During catagen, the hair follicle shrinks, and hair growth ceases. The lower part of the hair follicle degenerates, and the hair shaft detaches from its blood supply and moves upward. Only about 1% of scalp hairs are in the catagen phase at any given moment. This phase marks the end of active hair production and prepares the hair for its resting stage.
Telogen (Resting Phase)
Following the catagen phase, the hair enters the telogen phase, which is a resting period for the hair follicle. This phase usually lasts for approximately two to four months. During telogen, the old hair is completely at rest, and a new hair begins to grow beneath it within the same follicle. About 10-15% of scalp hairs are typically in the telogen phase. At the end of the telogen phase, the old hair is shed (exogen), making way for the new anagen hair to emerge. This natural shedding of 50-100 hairs per day is a normal part of the hair growth cycle.
Exogen (Shedding Phase)
While often considered part of the telogen phase, exogen is specifically the active shedding sub-phase. This is when the hair strand is released from the follicle and falls out. This shedding is an essential part of the renewal process, allowing the new hair to continue its growth unimpeded. The rate of shedding can be influenced by various factors, including stress, hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies, and certain medications.
Factors Influencing the Hair Cycle
The hair growth cycle is a sophisticated biological process that can be affected by a multitude of internal and external factors. Understanding these influences can provide insight into changes in hair health and growth patterns.
Hormonal Changes
Hormones play a significant role in regulating the hair growth cycle. Androgens, particularly dihydrotestosterone (DHT), can shorten the anagen phase and miniaturize hair follicles in genetically predisposed individuals, leading to androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness). Estrogens, on the other hand, tend to prolong the anagen phase, which is why many individuals experience thicker hair during pregnancy. Thyroid hormones also significantly impact the hair cycle, with both hyperthyroidism and hypothyroidism capable of causing hair shedding.
Nutrition
A balanced diet rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and proteins is crucial for healthy hair growth. Deficiencies in nutrients such as iron, zinc, biotin, and vitamins A, C, D, and E can disrupt the hair cycle, potentially leading to increased shedding or slower growth. Protein, the building block of hair, is particularly vital for maintaining the anagen phase's duration and hair strength.
Stress
Both physical and emotional stress can trigger a condition known as telogen effluvium, where a large number of hairs prematurely enter the telogen (resting) phase, resulting in noticeable shedding a few months later. Severe stress can alter hormone levels and redirect the body's resources, impacting the normal progression of the hair cycle.
Age
As individuals age, the hair growth cycle naturally changes. The anagen phase tends to shorten, and the diameter of the hair shaft may decrease, leading to finer, less dense hair. Some follicles may cease to produce hair altogether, contributing to general hair thinning.
Genetics
Genetic predisposition is a primary determinant of hair characteristics, including maximum hair length, hair texture, and the likelihood of experiencing certain types of hair loss, such as androgenetic alopecia. Genes influence the duration of each phase of the hair cycle and the sensitivity of hair follicles to hormones.
Environmental Factors and Hair Care Practices
Exposure to harsh environmental elements, chemical treatments, and excessive heat styling can damage hair, potentially disrupting the normal cycle. While these factors primarily affect the integrity of the hair shaft, prolonged damage can put stress on the follicles and contribute to premature shedding.
Medical Conditions and Medications
Various medical conditions, including autoimmune diseases, scalp infections, and chronic illnesses, can interfere with the hair growth cycle. Similarly, certain medications, such as chemotherapy drugs, anticoagulants, and some antidepressants, can have side effects that include hair loss or alterations in hair growth. Always consult a healthcare provider regarding medication-related hair changes.
Managing Hair Cycle Disruptions
When deviations from the normal hair cycle occur, such as excessive shedding or thinning, addressing the underlying cause is key. For nutritional deficiencies, dietary adjustments or supplements may be beneficial. For stress-induced shedding, stress management techniques can help. Topical treatments and specific hair care formulations, such as those designed to support hair growth, can also play a role in optimizing the hair environment. These products often contain ingredients that aim to nourish the scalp and hair follicles, promoting a healthy anagen phase and reducing premature shedding.
Maintaining a healthy lifestyle, including a balanced diet, regular exercise, and adequate sleep, serves as a foundation for optimal hair health and a well-regulated hair growth cycle. Consistent, gentle hair care practices also contribute to preserving the integrity of the hair shaft and supporting the follicle's function throughout its natural cycle.
Find these ingredients in Watermans products
- Biotin — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Growth Shampoo.
- Zinc — you will find this ingredient in our Hair Vitamins.